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Electric Radiant Floor Heat FAQ Page
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Please select the topic below or just page through this page to see all the topics.
Information referred to on this FAQ page can be found in more detail on specific
product pages. If you need anymore information - please hit the "contact us" button
on the top of this page and ask our experts.
How quickly does the floor warm up with Electric Radiant Heat ? Is there any fire hazard? How do I get started? Who Installs Electric Radiant Heat Floors? How do I lay out the rolls on my floor? How to repair Electric Radiant Heat Products? What Floor area should I cover? Can this be installed under a shower stall? What are the cheapest control options? |
The time needed to warm up your floor depends on several factors, such as the heat loss, your local weather or season, the type of subfloor you have, the space & insulation under the heated floor, and the watts option you chose (10 or 15 watt/ sq. ft.). In most cases, a second floor bathroom with 15-watt/ sq. ft. heating material will reach 78 to 82° after 30 to 40 minutes (which is most people's preferred temperature) and 90° after 2 hours. Installations with electric radiant heat 10 watts rolls or mats have a slower build of heat. No, there is no risk. As a matter of fact, our electric radiant heat matts are UL certified. UL (Underwriters Laboratory) tests electrical components and equipment for potential hazards. When something is UL-listed, that means that the UL has tested the device, and it meets their requirements for safety - ie: fire or shock hazard. Thus, Electric Underfloor Heating is safe! There are two ways to start your Electric Radiant Heat Underfloor project. You can send us a floor plan for a free customized installation plan and a precise estimate. Our fax number is 802-583-2572. If the surface you would like to warm is simple, you can call one of our sales staff at 1-802-583-2726 to get an estimate on the phone. There are two parts in any of our Electric Underfloor Heating installation: the installation in the floor and the electrical connection. Obviously the electrical connection should always be done by an experienced electrician. The open question is really Who Installs WarmlyYours in the Floor? Generally it is the tile setter or the flooring installer. A tile setter can easily cut the rolls and fit the room. The only small electrical experience he needs is to read the ohm resistance with a ohm meter. The easiest thing to do is to fax us your floor plan and we will fax back an installation layout that is customized to your open floor space with a price quotation FREE of charge. Yes, the location of a break or an electrical short can be found precisely and you will only have to remove a couple of tiles to repair it. An electrician can generate a high voltage arc from the control box thermostat. This will create a spark which can be located with an electronic sensor. A couple of tiles will then be removed and the broken cable will be spliced. A repair splice kit is available to perform this reparation If the Mesh roll is installed as a secondary source of heat, we recommend covering only the standing and traffic areas. We like to heat the toe-kick space under your counters and vanities, but we generally do not cover the last 6-to-18 inches against a wall where no one will be walking or standing. From experience, a bathroom with a 70-to-90 sq. ft. of wall to wall space will generally require only 30 sq. ft. of heated space, and a kitchen with 250 sq. ft. of wall to wall space will generally require 150 to 175 sq.ft. of heated space. Yes it can, BUT...since Mesh Matts and Rolls draw 110 volts it needs to be placed under the moisture barrier or under the shower pan. Generally we consider that it is not very practical under a shower: the heating element that is 1/2 inch under the ceramic tile floor will be 1 inch under the shower. Therefore the sensor, at 1/2 inch under the tile will turn the heater OFF when the floor reaches the temperature requested by the thermostat; but at that time the temperature of the shower floor is not anywhere close to that of the bathroom floor because the heat has more distance to travel. Moreover, you will still let the water warm up before you step into the shower and the floor will be warmed up by this hot water. The cheapest control is to buy a dimmer switch for $39. The dimmer switch allows you to increase-decrease the temperature but not to turn it on automatically while you are sleeping. The second cheapest control is to buy our timer ($65-without the thermostat) and leave it ON for 3 hours every morning. The disadvantage of this solution is that the timer has no floor sensor or thermostat, so it will continue to increase the floor temperature, even though it may have reached the temperature you want. |
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